Earlier this year, I published an interview with Peter Haselberger, of the Haselberger cidery in the Mostviertel, Austria’s most famous perry-producing region. We discussed how they were making a departure from the usual style and methods of the region, and during our chats we arranged an exchange of ciders and perries. Soon after, a case arrived from Austria (having been sent back to them the first time, for some unknown postal reasons), and I recently opened the final bottles, intending to share notes. Not everything I write has to be epically long, sometimes it’s just nice to focus on a few bottles! So here we go.

Peter told me all of the below are spontaniously fermented. The first three bottles I opened in mid-May 2026, when the weather was warm and pleasant, and the cellar was still cool.

Haselberger, Under den Speckbirne 2021 – review

Speckbirne is a variety I know well, in this part of Germany going under the name Oberösterreicher Weinbirne. A high tannin pear with fantastic flavour. This one is a single variety, 7.4% perry, labelled as unfiltered, as were all of the bottles, except the Bohnapfel.

How I served: Cool, not cold.

Appearance: Almost colourless in the glass, just a faint pale., yellow-green straw.

On the nose: Big nose, tinned lychee, poached pears in syrup, elderflower, lilies, a touch of gunpowder shots. Its really earthy, deep, belying the delicateness of the appearance.

In the mouth: Oily, unctuous, warming. Everything that was on the nose coating the tongue, lychee, melon, but dark and lustful, somehow, while being a fruit bomb. But where is all the tannin I know this pear has? Notable by its absence, the mouthfeel is all juicy and pleasing pear acidity.

In a nutshell: I somehow expected this to be vastly different to the usual Mostviertel perries, but it is very much in the same mould while at the same time being bigger, bolder, more joyful. Very wine-like in delivery, would be a fantastic alternative to a white wine on the table.

Haselberger, Under den Birnen Cuvée 2022 – review

A 6.2% dry perry, presumably a harvest blend of various pear varieties. Also labelled unfiltered to distinguish it from their “regular” range.

How I served: Cooled in the Fridge for 20 mins.

Appearance: Gold, still. Less bright than the Speckbirnen, a slight haze and tannin flakes in the bottle.

On the nose: A more delicate nose, pear skin, green apple flesh, honey and white blossoms. Steely, more sinewy, where the Speckbirne was a fluffy pillow.

In the mouth: More acid, crunchy green apple and peel, green grapes bursting between your teeth. A redcurrant and raspberry-like acidity. That sinewy character suggested on the nose continues; it is lean, precise, with just a little grip of tannin closing the apple flesh finish, leaving a lasting, dry impression on a short finish. But it opens with more air contact.

In a nutshell: Lean, acid-driven, a super clean perry with enough fruit to carry it on, making you take yet another sip. Would be a great accompaniment to a fatty pork dish.

Haselberger, Under den Landlbirne 2021 – review

A 7.2% dry, single variety perry made using Landlbirne, a variety I have not had the pleasure of trying before, but it’s a staple of the Mostviertel.

How I served: Cooled in the Fridge for 20 mins

Appearance: White gold, still. A very slight haze, barely noticeable.

On the nose: Delicate, floral: geraniums distilled down. Baked pineapple and lychee, but mostly a baked green apple skin and a wafting of a struck match.

In the mouth:  Fruiter than the nose suggested, leaning tropical; pineapple and grapefruit, Lilt anyone? Fresh nectarines. But soft and buttery, perhaps a slight lick of diacetyl, but in a comforting Chardonnay way. Acids well rounded, like well-ripened strawberry, and just a nibble of tannin adding a brace to the structure. In a way, all soft and gentle, but that vein of acidity keeps it from becoming flabby.

In a nutshell: A lovely perry to drink slowly and contemplate, though also one to pound down in gulps. I like it very much.

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The next set of three were drunk at the end of June, when the temperature was hitting 38°C during the say. One evening, as the sun was low in the sky, I ventured out to the barn where they were chilling in a fridge. Sometimes conditions mean I will chill rather than just cool a cider or perry! The first two are ciders, which I have to admit I have not tried many of from the Mostviertel, usually seeking out the perries that define the region.

Haselberger, Under der Bohnapfel 2021 – review

A 5.5% single variety dry cider made from Bohnapfel, a very popular, excellent variety for cidermaking in the German-speaking countries, and one that has a higher level of polyphenols than most of the apple varieties used here, but not quite into what I would regard as a bitter apple. The only one of the set not bearing the unfiltered sticker.

How I served: Straight from the fridge into a warm evening.

Appearance: Pale gold, still, clear.

On the nose: Appley is the first, rather unimaginative word that comes to mind. Though the heat may well have slowed my brain. But it is crisp, green apple that comes to the fore. Vinous notes, lychee (tinned) and light floral elements. Smells refreshing.

In the mouth: A big hit of apple acids on the first sip. Concentrated green apple and gooseberries, with those floral elements from the noise resolving into lilies and elderflower. Old-style white jelly beans (does anyone know what flavour they are?). As with the perries, presents very much in the style of a white wine from the feel and finish. Slightly slatey. A variety praised for its polyphenols, there is just a nip of bitterness on the finish.

In a nutshell: Even on a hot day, the high acids could be a little full on, but a pleasant, clean, wine-like cider.

Haselberger, Under den Brünnerling Apfel 2021 – review

A 5.5% single variety dry cider made from the Brünnerling apple, a variety I have never heard of, so can’t add any context here!

How I served: Straight from the fridge.

Appearance: Pale gold, still, clear.

On the nose: Delicate. Reminiscent of something aged on wood, though I am sure this has not seen a barrel. Woody. Woodruff jelly, baked apple. An intriguing combo that I found hard to define.

In the mouth: Soft, easy-drinking. Good acidity well integrated, and though dry, the fuller body combined with the flavours makes it feel a tick off-dry. Soft really is the operating word, soft ripe apples, a tinge of strawberry, a hint of banana. The woody note on the nose plays in the finish, adding a structural counterpart too the soft fruit.

In a nutshell: Ridiculously easy to drink, and perfect on a very hot, humid summer evening.

Haselberger, Under den Grüne Pickelbirne 2021 – review

An 8.4% single variety perry from the Grüne Pickelbirne, another staple from the Mostviertel.

How I served: Straight from the fridge.

Appearance: Pale gold, still, clear.

On the nose: A juicy banger! A billowing blend of fruit (tropical in nature?), with peach, ripe honey melon, honeysuckle, a rub of pineapple… it’s all very inviting and rich.

In the mouth: Yes, definitely a juicy banger! Even served cold it’s luscious, rich in body and flavour. All of the above, dialled up. Peach yogurt, pineapple, grapefruit (there’s that Lilt again), something suggesting a custardy creaminess, pepped up with a lime-like acidity and a lovely, gentle tannic grip, with an almost pithy, bitter finish.

In a nutshell: Quite spectacular, a wonderful, süffig perry, that bitter note cutting through a beautiful medley of flavours.

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Conclusions

What can I say? I wasn’t sure what to expect when Peter told me they were going in a different direction, no filtering, more natural processing and wild fermentation. But I think I received bottles that are very much according to the style of the regions, super clean, precise, wine-like in presentation and feel. His newer brand, Almost Pearfect, with a pet nat, may be the one that goes in a very different direction, so I look forward to trying that some day. But the above four perries and two ciders are very safe, high quality bets.

The Grüne Pichelbirne, in particular, is a simply stunning perry that I would recommend to anyone, but I’d have no hesitation suggesting any of the six above to anyone interested in exploring Austrian perry and cider.