The Egremont Russet
A single variety focus on the Egremont Russet.
Author: The Cider Critic
A spotlight on Kingston Black
With seven single variety ciders.
Reflections & Resolutions
As I look back over 2019 I think it will be remembered as somewhat of a defining year in cider’s history. Sure there were many firsts in 2018; Cider Salon, Pommeliers, etc. but it’s the second times, the repeats that really show something is taking hold. 2019 has given us that, plus so much more. CraftCon provided a platform for craft cider makers to learn, share and grow as a community. The Cider Salon mark 2 was bigger and bolder, taking over Bristol for a whole week and Ciderlands brought the world of cider tourism to Herefordshire. Cider clubs have launched all over the country bringing producers in direct contact with their customers to share their stories and passion. The way cider is now talked about, the language and vocabulary used, has leapt forward considerably. “Rethink cider” has become a slogan to promote a change in mentality of what cider is and can be. The tide is changing and 2020 is going to be a great year to ride the cider wave. Fine Cider Friday …
Ross Cider Festival 2019
“One more song, one more song,” the chants filled the air, the atmosphere pulsing with excitement. The coloured lights flickered across the ceiling, occasional shimmers of gold reflected off the crowd from a certain bold jacket (you know who you are). You could be forgiven for assuming that I’m at an arena but I’m not… this is the closing night of Ross Cider Festival being rocked by ‘Burnside’. Hidden away in an idyllic Herefordshire valley this annual event captures the heart of a small (by festival standards) but dedicated and extremely friendly crowd. My first visit with family and friends in tow certainly increased our love for Broome Farm and cemented what will from now on be our annual pilgrimage. As I sat in the main barn the following morning listening to Floaty & Special, whilst eating one last amazing stone baked pizza, I reflected on what was a marvellous weekend. Thursday’s Cider Club was the perfect start, with Haritz (aka Ciderzale) leading us on a wonderful Basque sidra journey. Acid led Sagardo naturala’s (natural ciders), a …
The ‘C’ Word
I have this flight of fancy, I walk into a pub and I ask “Do you have any ciders?” The response I get overwhelms me, “Certainly sir (it’s a very polite flight), we have traditional ciders, fruit ciders; both on draught and bottle, full juice and concentrate, single variety and blends. We’ve also got ice cider and a good selection of Perries.” Chances are if you live in Bristol, Manchester and maybe London, there might be a few establishments that could respond in a similar fashion to that. For the rest of us and particularly on my side of the Midlands (East) there is no chance. The reality for most of us if we say the ‘C’ word the response we can expect is “We’ve got a fruit cider and an apple one on tap and a few other fruit ones in bottle”. As I’ve encountered recently, sometimes they only have a fruit one on tap. They may also have no idea how they’re made or what they’re made from. Depending on your age you …
Cider Salon 2019 sneak preview!
With this year’s Cider Salon less than a week away and the fringe events starting tomorrow, I thought I’d give you a sneak preview of three fantastic creations to look out for at the Salon itself. Bear in mind there’s 20 producers, pouring 60 creations, so pace yourself but make sure you get in quick…it’s only two hours and I ran out of time last year. First up: Ganley and Naish – 4.6% This was pressed back in 2016 and is a blend of Yarlington Mill and Ashton Brown Jersey from an old low nitrogen orchard. The fermentation lasted a whole 12 months before being bottled in May 2018. Andy himself will be at the Salon pouring this one, so be sure to ask him all about it…it’s been over two years in the making. It pours a hazy light amber colour, the aroma is woody, with scents of tobacco. There’s medicinal qualities in there as well as some hints of barnyard from those rich tannic apples. There is almost zero acidity in the taste …
US delights from The Cider Salon 2018
With this years Cider Salon in Bristol just over two weeks away, I thought it was time I let you all know about some wonderful creations from across the pond, that I was lucky enough to get samples of at last years event. Now the Salon isn’t just about the ciders, it’s also an opportunity to meet and talk to the makers, which is a fantastic chance to hear the real stories behind their creations and hear the passion they have for their craft. Ryan Burk – Angry Orchard First up is ‘Edu’ from Ryan Burk of Angry Orchard, a homage to a friend from Asturias. The bottle describes it as a complex cider made from bittersweet and sharp apples, taking its cues from Spanish cider makers. Ryan was sharing this cider along with his “Understood in Motion” collaboration with Tom Oliver, and another, but embarrassingly I can’t recall…it has been nearly a year… Angry Orchard Edu 6.9% Popping the crown cap I’m greeted by green apple and slight citrus aromas and there’s some volatile acidity …
Downside Special Reserve Perry 2017
I’ve written about Paul Ross’s Perry before for Crafty Nectar and it was a marvellous drink. This creation of his however takes it up a notch… he answered a few of my questions to reveal how this exceptional fine perry was created. Paul likes to use a combination of British and French perry pears and this bottle is no exception with Plant de Blanc, Antricotin, Hendre Huffcap, Thorn and Rock varieties. The process is as complex as the drink; Paul explained how picking time is critical to ensure maximum tannin and acid and how milling and maceration duration is different by variety. The fermentation is low temperature and is followed by a complicated schedule of racking and blending. Two things stand out; time and passion,and Paul gives plenty of both. As Paul says, the emphasis with all his perries is “fruit concentration and quality, excellent cellaring practices and bold blend”. If you have the chance to taste this perry you will see how the quality and boldness shine through like a beacon. Pulling the …
Sandford Orchards – Yarlington Mill ‘On Leaf Fermentation’
A couple of months ago I had the pleasure of visiting the Bristol Cider Salon (thanks to Crafty Nectar) to see a showcase of sixty different ciders from twenty producers. Some were sharing tasters of long established products, but for many it was a chance to launch new and innovative ones. So that’s where I met Barny Butterfield, Chief Cidermaker at Sandford Orchards. Barny was there with a cider made from an entirely new technique: ‘on leaf fermenting’. Barny is open about his obsession with cider-making history and tradition, and thanks to a comment on a trial of adding leaves to the cider-making process that he came across, his experiment began. I’m simplifying here, but he took leaves form a ten year old Sweet Alford cider apple tree, tied them in a press cloth and added them to Yarlington Mill juice. In reality there was a lot more to it than that and you can read more about it using the link at the bottom. Barny describes the result as “astonishing” and the small taste …
Lyme Bay Winery’s Ammonite Range
For anyone who’s visited Devon or an English Heritage site or indeed your local large farm shop, chances are you’ve come across some of the many wines, liqueurs or ciders that Lyme Bay Winery produce. They are a multi (and I mean MULTI) award-winning producer, including from the International Cider Challenge. They have been making cider from their home in Devon’s Axe Valley for over twenty years. Starting with traditional more simple varieties, such as their Jack Ratt Scrumpy or Vintage and now expanding it to more innovative flavours and combinations. Firstly a few years ago by expanding into the fruit cider arena with their Annings range, named after Mary Anning the world famous paleontologist who’s fossil finds along the Jurrasic Coast adorn the walls of the Natural History Museum in London. More recently they have launched a range of flavoured ciders called the Ammonite range, so named after the plentiful fossil of a long extinct marine mollusc. There is a theme here and it’s one of history and heritage that Lyme Bay Winery are …
Cider Review 