Towards the end of 2024 I wrote a long exploration of the Viez culture around Trier, and what Viez really is, both historically and today. Do please have a read for full context! But before beginning that exploration, my own tasting experiences of Viez was quite limited and had shaded my views perhaps somewhat unfavourably. From the conversations I had while researching that article, I knew that the kind of high acidity commonly associated with Viez is not always so extreme, but I needed to learn more to appreciate it properly.

Thanks to Dirk from the Lampadener Viezjungen, last year I received a selection of Viez from the region with the goal to further my Viez education. Most of these makers only sell regionally, not online, and some don’t have an online presence at all, so this was a fantastically kind gesture from Dirk, for which I am very grateful.

And with such an array of creations from a wide range of makers, what else could I do but share some of the notes with you, to give an impression of the range available. Note that most did not carry the vintage on the labels, though perhaps I could have deciphered from lot numbers or the like, but those without dates are probably from the 2023 harvest. So here, in order of tasting over a several-month period, are 14 random bottles as a virtual tour through that region.

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Roland Lutz Brennerei, Fischer Viez – review

How I served: Cellar temp, 12-14 °C.

Appearance: Crystal clear, golden straw, still.

On the nose: Very wine-like. Big fruity bouquet, backed with a steely crispness. Ripe green apple and skin, green grapes, lychee and a twist of lime.

In the mouth: I was expecting an acid monster, but it is remarkably soft and pillowy. Buttered rich tea biscuits come to the fore, opening for a broad swath of lychee, soft green apple flesh and, dare I say it, a hint of blueberry. There’s almost a salinity to it, a body leaning almost lightly oily. Structurally, perhaps a little flabby, but the flavours are moreish.

In a nutshell: A very pleasant Viez that would make a decent alternative to white wine accompanying a meal.

Müller Viez – review

How I served: Cellar temp, 12-14 °C.

Appearance: A pale, green-tinged straw. Bright and still.

On the nose: Delicate, had to get my nose well into the glass. Green apple, pear skin and butterkekse. A faint suggestion of cooked cabbage/rubber, gone when allowed to breath a bit, perhaps our volatile sulphide friends.

In the mouth: Oh! Raspberry jam, overripe red apples, dried apple. Like with the previous Viez, an oiliness adding body. There is an acidity, but in no way sharp, translating more like candied lemon peel and peach yogurt. I wonder if malolactic fermentation played a role, resulting in the softness. An unusual drink, there’s still an ever so slight rubbery flavour, but fleeting on each swallow.

In a nutshell: Soft, pillowy, buttery. It’s an unusual drink that I could not make my mind up on, but it kept me sipping nonetheless.

Johannes Blau, Pellingen Viez – review

How I served: Cellar temp, 12-14 °C.

Appearance: Pale gold, crystal clear, still.

On the nose: Vibrant lime sorbet. Amazingly citric on the nose, masses of lime zest and juice, underneath which lie mandarin, lots of mandarin pith.

In the mouth: With all that citrus jazz on the nose I was expecting a juicey, acidic banger, but again, a reasonably soft affair on the acid stakes. Flavour-wise, nowhere near the lime levels suggested on the nose, but more a kind of lime curd and mandarin pith sorbet, underpinned by a rich, ripe apple and lychee compote, and a surprising, light pear-like grippiness.

In a nutshell: A really delightful combination of flavours and moreish texture. Highly recommended.

Bohrshof Welschbilliger, Viez von Bohrshof – review

How I served: Cellar temp, 12-14 °C.

Appearance: Pale gold, clear still.

On the nose: Alcohol-soaked marzipan on fruitcake. Something vaguely smokey, a tiniest whiff of phenolics. Tinned peaches, but slightly soured.

In the mouth: Dry, metallic, like sucking on a coin. Getting past that there’s orange zest, apple peel, blueberry. Quite austere in a way, but not unpleasant, as there is some body that rounds it off. Allowing it to breath for a few minutes opened it up, softening the edges and losing the metallic edge, bringing a quick snatch of burnt match (which I quite like) and peaches in syrup.

In a nutshell: An interesting Viez that needed a little time to open up. One for lovers of dry cider with body. But let it breath first!

Escher Viez – review

How I served: Cellar temp (now 13°C)

Appearance: Pale gold, crystal clear, still.

On the nose: The most appley of aromas so far, ripe green apple and apple skin. Very much wearing its heart on its sleeve.

In the mouth: Acids well up to the fore, but fresh, invigorating. Green apple flesh, red apple peel, with snappy lime pith and brushed around the edges with blackberries. A pretty dry finish with hints of tannin adding an unexpected, and not unwelcome dimension, pulling at the insides of the cheeks and leaving a lasting bitter note. But it’s still the fruity acids that dominate.

In a nutshell: A pretty decent and very affordable Viez that would make an honest-to-goodness everyday drink. Though maybe with a splash of mineral water to cut the acids a bit.

Kelterei Marc Conrad, Welschbilliger Viez – review

I had to double check, but yes, the second Viez from this village, but a different maker, the previous one being Bohrshof.

How I served: Cellar tamp as the previous, 13°C.

Appearance: Pale gold, crystal clear, still.

On the nose: Soft jelly beans, raspberry sours, burnt match, onion.

In the mouth: A broader, chewier acidity, hot raspberries and strawberry yogurt with a slightly metallic note. There’s a heat at the back of the throat, leather, a nibble of burnt plastic and that slight sulphuric note. Over-sulphited maybe? Doesn’t feel like H2s, but it’s a bit off-putting.

In a nutshell: At its heart, this could be a very pleasant Viez, but the sulphur notes were too much for me. Another candidate for the tradition of adding water.

Lampdener Viezjungen, Birnenviez mit Apfelwein 2023 – review

How I served: Take a guess! Cellar temp…

Appearance: A slight gusher on opening, raising up the deposits from the bottom of the bottle. Otherwise, an opalescent gold with a very steady stream of bubbles.

On the nose: Big, bold fruit-forward nose, loads of peach, dried apricot – correction, peach sorbet. An almost candy-like sweetness to the nose.

In the mouth: A bit thinner than the nose would suggest, but it retains all those peachy, apricoty elements, joined by an acidic bite, presumably from the added Apfelwein in the blend, that lends it a lemon pith and green apple crunch. Light tannins creep up as you drink, leaving a pleasant chalky feel on the tongue. Would love to know the percentage of Apfelwein added to the blend, and would love to try the base perry without the apple addition.

In a nutshell: A lovely light, refreshing perry with a zing on the tongue.

Wiltinger Viez 2023 – review

How I served: Staying with cellar temp!

Appearance: Straw/pale gold, still.

On the nose: Delicate. Suggests apple things, dried apple rings mostly Yeast and a snatch of burnt plastic.

In the mouth: Very acidic! But clean, lean, nadulterated malic acid. Mouthwatering and puckering, it’s all fresh, crunchy apple, green, unripe flesh and skins, lending a drying, waxy finish. But it is lime cordial that lingers longest on the tongue.

In a nutshell: Really a fun Viez to drink, as it’s almost a shock with every sip! Bright and limetastic.

Eifelviez 2023 – review

How I served: Cellar, still 13°C.

Appearance: Gold, slight haze, and it popped very loudly on opening, despite it supposed to be still.

On the nose: Muted. Herbal, lemon-scented thyme, candied orange peel.

In the mouth: Soft butterscotch, buttered digestive biscuits squeezed with orange zest. As you drink into it, the orange notes increases, like being sprayed with juice as you peel an orange. Slightl thin, perhaps, yet leaves a lovely feel across the palate. Crushed pelargonium leaves and caramelly Werther’s Originals. I suspect some malolactic conversion happened along the way, maybe partly in the bottle given the loud pop.

In a nutshell: An unusual Viez, not what I was expecting, but that soft buttery-orange zest combo is rather appealing to this taster.

Benzmüller’s Viez – review

How I served: Cooled, circa 10°C

Appearance: Gold, still, clear.

On the nose: Warm apfelmus, caramel, slight raspberry… vanilla fudge!

In the mouth: Has all of what’s on the nose, more vanilla, honey melon, copper pipe, a touch of what people here might call “mostig”, a kind of musty cellar cider made by granddad. Warming on the tongue with a finish reminiscent of ripe red apple and more vanilla fudge.

In a nutshell: Quite nice, the aroma especially, but enjoyed the vanilla fudge edge the most.

Hofgut Serrig, “Uusen” Trierer Viez – review

Actually from a small village some 25km south of Trier, but I guess still getting a claim on the Trier connection. The “Roter Trierer” on the label does not refer to the Roter Trierer Weinapfel, but rather to the “red” connection of Trier being the birthplace of Karl Marx. Hofgut Serrig is a huge farm that supports people with various disabilities, and Viez is only a tiny part of what they produce.

How I served: 20 mins in the fridge.

Appearance: Pale straw, still.

On the nose: Bright, mouthwatering, vinous lychee and jelly apple rings.

In the mouth: The nose suggested something far more acidic, but while acids may lead, they are very well rounded. Dry, vinous, puts me in mind of a light version of Riesling, all green apple, lemon and line (like a still, dry sprite) and slightly slatey. A fruit-forward finish lingers long, all apple and fresh-blooming elderflower.

In a nutshell: Very nice. Would happily serve a few bottles of this with a meal, or just to swig on a hot summer’s day.

Weingut Johann Peter Mertes, Viez 2023 – review

An actual winery, producing some very expensive wines, but it seems many wineries in the region produce some sort of Viez as a side thing, but then sold extremely cheaply. They don’t list it on their website shop, bit I was informed a bottle of Viez costs about €2.50. Compare that to their wines from €12 up to over €40, and you will see how Viez is regarded.

How I served: About half an hour in the fridge.

Appearance: Gold, still, crystal clear,

On the nose: Massive, expressive nose! While the previous Viez suggested Riesling, this is heavily leaning into Gewürztraminer territory. Big green apple flesh, lychee, elderflower, rosewater, very hard to stop sniffing that glass.

In the mouth: Fabulous. More of the above, lashings of it, delivered on a wonderfully dry palate, Spicy notes of ginger, elderflower stems bringing a nibble of green bell pepper. More of that lychee. A long, comforting finish.

In a nutshell: Superb! I don’t know if it is their skill with making grape wine that has led to such an expressive Viez, but the delivery of the fruit is just brilliant. Highly recommended, incredible value, one to share.

Klimmes Viez – review

How I served: As above.

Appearance: Pale gold, clear and still.

On the nose: Sweet candy, apple drops, a slightly solventy note, suggesting nail varnish.

In the mouth: An interesting texture, velvety smooth, but then comes a zap of lime juice that might have been left out too long. Green apple skin, thyme, a suggestion of strawberry, but the finish, while still zinging a bit, feels slightly cardboardy.

In a nutshell: Some interesting flavours wanting to come out, but for me it feels a tad oxidised.

Kelterei & Brennerei Gorges, Viez – review

How I served: 30 minutes in the fridge.

Appearance: Straw, still, bright.

On the nose: Jammy. Apricot yogurt, blueberries and… toast?

In the mouth: Diluted apple and pear juice, blueberry yogurt. The finish is somewhat odd, causing a slight scratching at the back of the throat, yet leaving a lingering flavour reminiscent of white jellybeans (the specific flavour of those jellybeans from my childhood has always eluded me).

In a nutshell: A bit thin on substance, but otherwise perfectly pleasant and easy drinking.

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Conclusions

The discussion surrounding Viez often includes references to almost excessively high acidity, and I admit that even two years ago, I shared this perception. Although high acidity is often the case, possibly due to some producers harvesting all at once and too early, the spectrum I tasted through above demonstrates a remarkable variety of well-crafted drinks. While fruit acids naturally tend to be prominent – after all, it is one of Viez’s characteristic features – none crossed into unpleasantness.

There are some that I might be less inclined to choose again; however, most I would gladly enjoy if offered, and several I would actively seek out if I were in the region. However, it’s worth noting that nearly all of these apple wines are exclusively available in their production region, which is both commendable and yet somewhat disappointing for those who appreciate such drinks. So, if you find yourself in the area around Trier, consider sampling some Viez alongside the renowned wines of the region. You likely will not regret it!