When I published the interview with Māris last week, I noted that it was great he could take the time for a long interview and follow-ups right in the middle of harvest season. And it is harvest season that delayed me putting together some tasting notes on a few of his creations till now, so it’s about time I got them out. So no long preamble this time, if you want one and haven’t read it already, I do recommend our interview with Māris as a great inroduction to what they are doing in Latvia. So without further an ado, let’s get to it!

We’re starting with a duo of still ciders, both described as being made from traditional Latvian dessert apples with added wild varieties that bring some tannin to the party. Always a welcome guest!

Mr. Plūme, Dry, Still Cider 2023 – review

How I served: Cool, not cold.

Appearance: Crystal clear, straw-gold still.

On the nose: A delicate nose. Very “white wine”-adjacent. Light bready notes, buttered toast with strawberry jam. A twist of orange zest and slatiness. Bruised green apple skin.

In the mouth: Acid-forward, suggesting light lemon curd with a whisper of bitter orange. So light and lean up front, after the swallow it broadens with tart apple flesh and juicy lychee keeping the salva glands active. Is that a note of strawberry and cream? Possibly. A herbal tone to the finish, thyme, and a long lasting minerality, like licking a stone. What stone I cannot say. Puts me in mind of Austrian (Mostviertel) perry and dry Riesling.

In a nutshell: A very fine, refined cider, excellent with a fat-rich cheese. Certainly opens up when reaching the suggested serving temp.

Mr. Plūme, Sweet, Still Cider – review

How I served: Fridge for 15 mins after coming up from the cellar at 17°C.

Appearance: As with the dry above.

On the nose: Lychee, lime marmalade, red apple skin, something that puts me in mind of wine gums and lime jelly.

In the mouth: Luscious. Very fruit forward, it is sweet, but not overly so, hitting a balance with the acids. I sense it shares some DNA with the dry cider, and I am shocked to say I think I prefer this, just on the balance factor. The same lychee notes, with light orange up front, strawberry and cream candies, lemon sorbet, but all dialled up to big fruitiness levels.

In a nutshell: Sweet ciders are generally not to my taste, but this was delightful, luscious and easy-drinking. Serve cool to get the most out of it.

I have to admit, I did a little blending of the dry and sweet, and it really worked for me, best of both worlds. When I told Maris, he informed me that they have a medium in the pipeline, so watch that space.

On to the first sparkling cider, a wild-fermented creation, pet nat, I believe, and a blend of local varieties plus Dabinett.

Mr. Plūme, Vintage 2021 – review

How I served: Opened 15 minutes after taking out of the fridge.

Appearance: An inviting amber-gold, nice mousse, gentle sparkle.

On the nose: Oh my! Dab! Bitter orange marmalade, a touch of smoky phenolics, just a hint. A whiff of fresh, yeasty bread, pomegranate. Wild, but so clean, just a slight twist of what would get me fired from CR for calling it funk. But I’m not calling it that!

In the mouth: First the phenolics, slightly peaty in character, then a wash of fresh acids, all green apple flesh and lime. The main body is all juicy fruits, mandarin, tinned mango, a touch of banana. There is some residual sweetness, very well rounded off with the acid and gentle tannins. A lasting finish suggesting coconut, bitter orange, pineapple and lime zest trailing away.

In a nutshell: What a ride! The combination of local acid-led apples, an English mainstay bittersweet and wild fermentation delivers a journey of flavours that keeps you engaged. Just lovely.

That is going to be very hard to follow up, let’s see how a perry fares. The one I have been waiting for, of course, a dry perry. A traditional method blend of Austrian Dorschbirne, Swiss Gelbmöstler, local Latvian wild pears and an asian variety, Tem Bo Li.

Mr. Plūme, Perry Brut 2022 – review

How I served: Cellar temp, a bit cooler than the recommended 20°C [actualy, I was told after that the numbers were for storage temp, and the words said serve chilled in Latvian, mea culpa, I should have asked].

Appearance: Very highly carbonated, a light gusher. Pale gold, some perry flakes in the glass, stirred up from the gush, otherwise bright.

On the nose: Luscious, juicy. Ripe honey melon, pear drops, juicy, dripping pear flesh, tinned peaches. Very much a “perry nose” and very inviting.

In the mouth: Tannins! Lovely grippy tannins, but they let go, releasing a wash of all the flavours showing on the nose, dialled up a notch. Add a generous dash of pineapple-like acidity making it a fresh splash on the tongue. It feels like there is more residual sugar than the label implies, a fruitiness perhaps, though also felt on the lips. There’s a saline nip, like a nibble of digestive biscuits. The interplay of tannic structure, acid brightness and a melange of ripe fruit flavours keep it very on point. Moreish.

In a nutshell: A delicious perry with a refreshing acidity taking the lead, oodles of fruity flavours, and just the right level of grippy tannins to lend it a crunch. Fun to drink. Do chill before opening though.

Conclusions

I can see why Mr. Plūme has won awards, and they are certainly deserved. I can feel the Austrian influences from Maris’s early “apprenticeships” with the Most Baronen in the first two still ciders, but that’s definitely not a bad thing. All super clean and precise, though tempered through a local lens and own experiences.

But that Vintage 2021 with Dab in the mix? Very much up my alley. It’s hard for me to choose between that and the perry, but I think the sheer range of flavour and balance makes it my pick of the four.

I’m very much looking forward to trying some more creations, and hope that the cider-drinking public of Latvia and beyond keep this excellent cidery in business.

Cover photo by Dace Smiltniece-Plūme. All other photos by Barry Masterson