You know the way perry is rare and precious thing even in the UK and France, where it’s still a “thing”? Well hello from Germany where it’s like hen’s teeth. Nevertheless, I have had to slowly revise my count of proper perry makers from just a handful a few years ago to, well, at least a couple of handfuls now! I have been slowly accumulating a small collection over the past year, some bought, some gifted, many swapped in exchange for my own perries, and I thought what better time that Cider Review Perry Month to crack them open and have a kind of State of the Nation taste-through.

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Der Kleine Cider Betrieb – Poiré Sommerberg 2023 – review

New to these pages is Der Kleine Cider Betrieb (The Small Cider Company), a side-project run by engineer Volker Nußbaum in Beckum, up in North Rhine-Westphalia. A region I’m slightly familiar with as I lived in Münster for a couple of years, and my wife’s mother grew up in the region. Not typical cider country! Volker began selling just last year, but had been making small amounts as a hobby for the past five years. Making only 600-800 bottles a year, and planning to stay that way, his company is particularly well named! This is a spontaneously fermented, traditional method perry made using Schweizer Wasserbirne, Bayerische Weinbirne and some random seedling pears found nearby.

How I served: I was in a rush, a few minutes in the freezer compartment for the first glass, and properly cooled for the second.

Appearance: A slightly green-tinged straw with a touch of haze. A light foam maintained by a flow of bubbles.

On the nose: Leaning into the fruity, tropical camp. Sweet tinned peaches, juicy fruit gum, a touch of bubblegum, followed by an almost spicy, umami character. Rich.

In the mouth: More acid-forward than suggested by the nose, the first swallow brings a wash of lime and tangerine zest, followed swiftly by a solid bassline of astringent tannins. A slight bitter almond  lingering on the tongue after the swallow. Between these boundaries lies juicy fruit. Pear sorbet, zingy sour fruit jellies, soft pear flesh and candied ginger. Some residual sweetness adding to the overall body, supporting the rest well.

In a nutshell: Juicy, cut with a pleasant acidity, this is one for people who like a light bitter note that keeps things interesting. Best served cool, around 12-14°C.

I have had quite mixed experiences with German wild-fermented perries, but this is super clean while being characterful. My first glass was too warm, and it was certainly better cooled to around the 13°C mark. Nicely done, Volker!

Lampadener Viezjungen – Birnenviez: Sievenicher Mostbirne 2023 – review

Another new maker for these pages, the Lampadener Viezjungen from near Trier in the Rhineland Palatinate. Does the Palatinate sound familiar? Well, if you follow my history geek writings, the West Palatinate used to be a major perry producing region in Germany, and indeed, Trier has in the past put taxes on perry coming into the city to reduce competition with wine. So it’s very exciting that there are makers again starting to make perry in that region, despite the terrible reputation it seems to have developed in recent decades.

Lampadener Viezjungen translates as the Viez Boys of Lampaden, Viez being the local dialect for their form of cider. You will encounter them again next month, so I will forego any in depth exposition here. Sievenicher Mostbirne is a variety that originates from that region, and is one I’ve been curious about for years, as I have grafted this variety myself.

How I served: Crash cooled while identifying pears in the yard.

Appearance: Verging on light copper with a pink blush, it is striking in appearance. Force-carbed, it cracked with a resounding pop and is lively in the glass.

On the nose: Jellied fruits, candied orange peel, hibiscus and rosehip tea. Something vaguely umami abou tit,and for a brief moment a whiff of cheerios that quickly dissipated.

In the mouth: Oh my! Acid forward and very astringent. Mouth-puckeringly so, though as one drinks through, one gets accustomed to it. And I thought I have a high tolerance! Lots of berry flavours. Strawberry (yes, I know it’s an aggregate accessory fruit), raspberry, blueberry, but all of the sour candy variety. That “perry” flavour is there. Ripe, honey-tinged perry pears. A twist of liquorice on the finish with just a lick of carbolic soap.

In a nutshell: The core flavours of this perry are excellent, but the high acid combined with high, long-lasting astringency may be a challenge for some. For me, a little out of balance, whihc can be fun too. Would love to try after a couple years’ ageing.

I’m both pleased and devastated that I got the last bottle in existence, so I cannot try it again after a year or two of ageing! I think it could soften over time if left on the lees, (though maybe pressing a tad later would soften things from the get-go), but I am very excited to see what the Viez boys do this season.

Trinkender Zobel – Birnen-Apfel Cider Brut 2022 – review

Strictly, this is a pear-apple co-ferment, as it is 70% pears and 30% apples. But there is certainly historic precedence in Germany for this combo as manuals from centuries ago often recommended adding sharp apples to perry to help balance and stabilise them, and conversely, adding perry pears to ciders to help clarify and add structure is still a thing in some regions. But I’m also including it here as a short introduction to Trinkender Zobel, from maker Franziska Zobel, who you will learn more about in the coming months.

How I served: 10 minutes out of the fridge.

Appearance: Wonderfully bright, almost glowing golden straw with a steady stream of bubbles.

On the nose: Delicate, but very much perryesque on the nose, despite the 30% apple. Biscuity, lychee, a hint of raspberry and, ahh, there it is, ripe red apples and dried apple rings. White lilies dance around the edge.

In the mouth: The apples perhaps making themselves a little more known here. A crisp acidits to the fore, full of crunchy green apple and raspberry jam. But the pears aren’t exactly taking a back seat. Again, lychee, with honey melon, salty digestive biscuits, a twist of mandarin zest on the swallow, lingering long with a bite of fresh bread and a whiff of thyme.

In a nutshell: A really delightful drink that could easily replace sekt or champagne at a celebration. Or just opening one to celebrate yourself on a Sunday night.

I’m very much looking forward to tasting through the rest of Franziska’s creations.

Böhm Ciderwerkstatt – Sommerbirnen Cuvée 2019 – review

It wasn’t till last year that I found out that Manfred Böhm (who you may have read about here already) had been experimenting with perries as I’d never seen any for sale. But he was good enough to send me a mixed box, most of which I have already consumed, but this one was remaining in the cellar. I am sure this was a tiny batch made in 2019, but how has it fared?

How I served: 15 minutes out of the fridge.

Appearance: A light fizz on the pour. Clear, pale amber.

On the nose: Soft, pillowy, poached pears, vanilla fudge and redcurrants. With a name like “summer pears”, this fits.

In the mouth: Sharper than the juicy nose suggested. A lick of astringency on the swallow, pulling in the cheeks, but opens up to pear sorbet, lime pith, fresh blueberries, ripe pears and pear skin. A slight metallic note on the finish, but all bright, like a new razor blade.

In a nutshell: A refreshing palate cleanser, superbly dry with plenty of berry and citrus flavours keeping things zippy.

I know Manfred had a disastrous year last year with his first “big batch” of perry, which led to him even replacing the wooden staves on his press due to a suspected infection of some sort. Pears are assholes, as I have said before. But he has already pressed some pears for 2024, so hopefully this works out again!

1785 Cider – Perry Cuvée 2021 – review

1785 probably need no introduction if you are a regular reader of Cider Review, and I had the pleasure of interviewing Patrick and Wendy for this site a couple of years ago. Just like Manfred, I consider them friends, the German artisanal cider community being somewhat small, but honesty between makers is important, so I’ll put that right up front. I’ve had this bottle hiding on a shelf for a while, so what better time to open than perry month?

How I served: 20 minutes out of the fridge. I recalled Patrick said not to serve too cold.

Appearance: Lively! Smoke wafting out of the neck, and a little overflow. Pale gold and clear in the glass.

On the nose: Tropical. Like sniffing a bag of pineapple and lime sherbet. Marzipan with a dusting of icing sugar. Something pithy, like a cross between orange and grapefruit.

In the mouth: As above. Childhood memories of lollies dipped in sherbet powder.  Fruit rounds out to peach yogurt with a twist of lime zest. A slightly “schnappsy” middleground, giving way to a solid, gently grippy marzipan and digestive biscuit.

In a nutshell: Juicy banger may be the short note on this. Love the combo of tropical fruits and that marzipan-like tone carrying all the way through. Süffig.

You can get more background on 1785 Cider in my interview with them from Perry Month 2022, with no less than four perries tasted then too! And Adam also tasted this one a while ago. I have not read the notes, so I am interested to see if we concur once this is published.

1785 Cider – Tiefgründig Cask-Aged Still Perry 2022 – review

Still perry seems to be becoming a “thing”, and I welcome it! Having released my own first still perry in 2023 (a 2021 vintage), the same year that Little Pomona released their Thrrone Farm, I think we can call that setting a trend! Though it must be said that in Germany the vast majority of cider (Apfelwein/Most) is packaged still, and that is probably also true for most pear wines from larger German makers and wineries. But when 1785 released Tiefgründig, their first still perry (and cask aged) at the end of May this year, well, definitely something to watch.

Patrick told me that Tiefgründig was aged as a second fill in a reconditioned oak cask, the previous fill being another perry that, at the time of writing, was just about to be released. Very much a harvest blend, on asking Patrick what varieties are in it, the reply was “Hmm, 2022… Gelbmöstler, Oberösterreicher, Schweizer Wasserbirne, Bayerische Weinbirne, Luxemburger. Probably also Wilde Eierbirne, Knollbirne, Grüne Jagdbirne”. All but two of which I know well! 2022 was a hot year here with amazing sugars, but down in the Black Forest the crop yield was low, so they blended this with some Cuvée 2021 to be able to fill the barrel. So, how does it taste?

How I served: 15 mins out of the fridge.

Appearance: Clear, still (as expected), straw-gold with a peach blush.

On the nose: Pronounced herbs, spice and oaky vanilla. The oak isn’t overdoing it, blending wonderfully with the herbal notes, behind which come bright, tropically-tinted fruit. A touch of pineapple, sweet grapefruit, pear skin. It feels like a lot going on.

In the mouth: Big juicy ripe pear right from the start, but of the serious, tannic type. Not particularly astringent, but a broad, burley structure. Again, oak taking a major role, but not stealing the limelight. Nutmeg, cardamom (?), some herbal notes suggesting fresh thyme and a tiny pinch of oregano. Lychee, sweet pineapple, a flash of raspberry jam and a long finish with pleasing bitter and vanilla elements.

In a nutshell: A striking, robust still perry with a lovely broad texture and bright highlights keeping it fresh. I was sipping for ages, picking new things out.

1785 Cider – Eis-Perry 2023 – review

Released in just this month, so hot, or rather cold off the press, 1785’s interpretation of an Ice Perry. You know, I will save myself some typing and let Patrick tell you directly.

“We made 50L of cryo-concentrate from some of our ’23 Cuvee blend. It started at around 1.140 and fermented down to about 1.060 when we stopped it by cooling. It ended up at 9,5% ABV and 114g/L esidual sugar. It spent it’s entire life in 2 x 25L glass vessels, so I was very surprised that it was ready to bottle by the summer of 24. Generally our cuvee needs 18 months before we think about selling it. 

In terms of the vintage: it was a fairly cool, wet summer followed by a very nice autumn. Big crops of pears. But I can’t really say much about the quality yet, because all of our other ’23 perries are still in various stages of production.  Also I sadly can’t tell you what the mix of pears was. It was a bit of an ad hoc decision to take some of the juice and try cryo-concentrating. I do think it had a fair bit of Bayerische [Weinbirne] in it, as we were looking for something gentler for the ice perry.”

And there you go. Please excuse the wonky label, that is entirely my fault, as I had picked up a bottle directly from the cidery while on holiday, before the labels had arived, and Patrick kindly sent me one by post to apply in my own special cack-handed way.

How I served: Straight out of the fridge but warmed a bit as I was distracted by something else.

Appearance: Light amber, still.

On the nose: Delicate when cold, rises with a few degrees more. Candied orange peel, touch of marmalade, a touch of cinnamon spice, light Christmas pudding and glacé cherries. Warming.

In the mouth: I expected sweet, as the nose has lots of candied notes. And it is, all stone fruits, raisins, dates soaked in cherry schnapps and ripe, juicy pear flesh. But there’s a sharp thread of lemon curd and lime zest cutting neatly through it all, preventing it from becoming cloying, and keeping everything super fresh. A light tannic grippiness comes in on the finish, but the overall impression is of luscious, moist Christmas pudding with strawberry and cherry liqueur.

In a nutshell: Rich, juicy, well-structured and dangerously moreish. A wonderful post-dinner, feet up and sink into the sofa drink.

Nothing more to say, I’m just going to contemplate this for a moment…

Manufaktur Jörg Geiger – Birnenschaumwein Bratbirne (2019?) – review

Jörg Geiger is probably the most internationally well know maker of cider and perry in Germany. Well, maybe the second-most! But he’s a maker that the likes of Tom Oliver would point to. One of the most famous stories that got Geiger into the news here was his battle with the Champenoise some years ago, around the usage of the word Champagner on one of his labels, a single variety perry made from the Champagner Bratbirne. Now, Claude Jolicoeur’s book, Cider Planet, would have it that Geiger won the case, and is allowed display the name on his labels, but that is wrong. He lost. It pays to have someone local fact-check your book! So, champagner is not allowed to be on the front of his sparkling perry label any more, but it is allowed to be mentioned as the variety name on the back label. So, this “Bratbirne” is actually Champagner Bratbirne. There are other Bratbirnen varities in the German language classification, but this is probably the most famous. Its other name, Deutscher Bratbirne, is clearly not as sexy as Champagner, and to be fair, the Champagner name has been used for quite some time now.

How I served: 30 mins in the fridge then out.

Appearance: Palest straw, bright and sparkling.

On the nose: A nose as bright as the appearance. High notes of pear flesh, lychee, cantaloupe, with bready, yeasty undertones. A slight alcoholic twang.

In the mouth: Effervescent, tingling on the tongue. All of the above, but richer and rounder, Lychee, cantaloupe, but joined by a thread of fruit acids, suggesting light raspberry with a twist of lime. That bready note, with just a hint of residual sugar, rounds it off nicely, adding a richness to offset the acid. Just a faint grip of tannin, but a lovely mouthfeel and structure, and a long melon and green apple skin finish.

In a nutshell: Just a really lovely, refined perry. One for celebrations, perhaps, given the price tag.

I do have another Champagner Bratbirne bottle in the cellar, but I’m too lazy to go check which variant it is, but I suspect one with a little more residual sugar.

Manufaktur Jörg Geiger – Karcherbirne – review

I couldn’t find a year on this bottle, but it probably has a couple of years on it as it is traditional method. I was especially interested in this perry this week, as our “Helden” tree might just be a Karcherbirne, so this was a test for me. But bear in mind, from what I have heard from former employees, Geiger will use typical wine making techniques to adjust acid and tannins to round off the edges. Certainly a Grüne Jagdbirne I tried form Geiger a year or so ago bore no resemblance to the acid bomb of the single variety I made. That was probably a good thing. Nevertheless, I wanted to know if I could taste traces of Helden here!

How I served: From the fridge, 8-9°C.

Appearance: The palest golden straw, crystal clear, sparkling.

On the nose: So sekt-like. Quite delicate though, you really have to get the nose in. Green apple skin, elderflower, freshly mown grass, a faint creaminess that puts me in mind of cream soda or melting vanilla ice cream with sultanas.

In the mouth: Wonderful acidity, all lemon meringue and zest. The texture is quite striking, almost velvety. That impression of cream soda continues in the mouth, so smooth. Elderflower as marked on the nose, with tinned peaches and honey melon. All the while a sparkle on the tongue. Some residual sugar but balanced well by the acidity. Just a tickle of tannin, made known by a faint dryness on the back of the tongue. Temperature was just right.

In a nutshell: A stunning delivery, and as elegant as the bottle itself suggests. Another that could easily replace Sekt or champers at a festivity.

I don’t know what kind of interventions may have taken place in this liquid, but frankly I don’t care when it is full juice (8% ABV) and just really bloody good.

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Conclusion

Nine perries from six makers, and you know what, it seems there are more appearing. I think it might be a bit too early to say that perry is having a kind of resurgence in Germany, but it is comforting to know that there is a growing interest amongst makers in using the fruits of the big old trees dotting large parts of the German countryside.

The above represent a range of old hands and newcomers to the perry family, but I think we are especially seeing the smaller, more agile ones just giving it a go, which is great. And overall, the quality is pretty good. Well, 1785 has been a favourite of mine since I first tried them, and Geiger’s reputation is certainly well deserved, but I was really happy that even first timers are turning out pretty decent drinks, and I am sure they will get even better as the vintages go by. And long may it continue.

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All photos by Barry Masterson.