All of us at Cider Review are, with the whole international cider community, devastated at the recent passing of Susanna Forbes. She was a friend to us all, and a mentor to both of our founders, who wanted to share this small tribute today. All our thoughts and love go to James, the Little Pomona team both past and present, and everyone who knew and loved Susanna.

Adam

On the 4th February 2019 I wrote a very formal email to a journalist, author and cidermaker who I had never met, but whose work I admired. I wrote as a whisky blogger with a single isolated amateur cider article to my name, knowing (with hindsight) very little about and next to no one within the world of cider, not really expecting anything; not even really expecting a reply. Within a couple of weeks I had been invited to the cidery, asked about my work, pointed towards a wealth of articles by different authors and offered a press pass to the first CraftCon. Because the person I had written to was Susanna Forbes.

There is an inexhaustible number of ways with which you might begin a tribute to Susanna’s contribution to cider, but perhaps the biggest and most important is her unparalleled ability to elevate those around her. Whoever you were, whatever you did, however you thought and however long you spoke to her for, you left a conversation with Susanna not only believing that you were special and valid and heard – you left knowing it.

The testimonies to this are endless. Whether you made cider or sold it or wrote about it or just might be interested, Susanna wanted to know what you thought. In conversation she would always return the emphasis to you: to what you were doing or making or thinking. And she would want to know more. And she would tell you how important it was and why you were absolutely the person to do it. She would make everything seem achievable; she would make you excited to keep on with it. And then she would put you in touch with absolutely whoever she could think of who could help you. 

As a friend put it to me, it was in Susanna’s very being to raise people up. And, looking back, that spirit of championing, of encouragement, of seeing something perhaps that few others could and thrusting it into the limelight interwove itself in the subjects she chose to write about. Beer, at a time when there were far fewer writers paying professional attention to it than there are today. English wine long before most took it seriously. And, of course, ultimately most of all, cider and perry.

Susanna was one of the very first people to come from a world of drinks outside of cider, and still treat it with the respect it deserves. There wasn’t a dismissive bone in Susanna’s body; whilst bringing the context of other, perhaps more vaunted drinks industries, she took cider seriously, wanted to know all that it had to say for itself, rather than imposing her own opinions and takes upon it. 

It’s worth remembering here that she was also by far and away the most brilliant journalist to have engaged with cider – ‘journalism’ in its truest sense being a discipline far apart from the overwhelming majority of drinks writing, and one which very few of us have been trained in. But Susanna’s inherent curiosity, open-mindedness, diligence with notes, editorial eye, understanding that it was the subject that mattered and, above all, natural ability to talk to people in a way that allowed them to open up and expand, meant that her writing had a rigour, impact and depth that punched far above its word count. I recently re-read The Cider Insider, which she published in 2018. From almost anyone else in the world a book ostensibly about 101 ciders and producers might have dated within a couple of years. But in Susanna’s hands the ciders themselves were just an additional shade of colour to the depth and texture of the broader world she was uncovering. Buy it, read it, and whilst you’re at it read anything else of hers that you can find.

Critically though, at the same time as treating cider with consummate respect, Susanna recognised that here was a drink to which she could contribute in a meaningful and long-term way.

It is probably impossible, and unquestionably beyond the scope and capabilities of this article to adequately summarise the difference that Susanna made to the shape and perception of British cider. It manifests perhaps most tangibly in the shape of Little Pomona, the cidery she founded with her beloved husband, James, after cider had intractably wriggled its way into their hearts. They were neither the first nor the last to cross the bridge from wine to cider, but no one before or since has so perfectly blended their genuine love of and belief in cider as a drink distinct and apart from wine, the humility to engage wholeheartedly and unreservedly as a central part of the cider community and the assured confidence to push cider towards fresh frontiers and higher aspirations whilst revelling in its unique identity.

It’s near-incontestable that Little Pomona have been the most impactful brand on the fortunes of aspirational cider since their inception. They didn’t invent the 750ml bottle in cider, but they arguably popularised it. Their labels represented a quantum shift in how cider could present itself both visually and in terms of the information disclosed to the consumer. Elements that seem fundamental; tasting notes, suggested food pairings, listed varieties and recommended serving temperatures, all were few and far between on back labels before Susanna and James made them normal. Methods, playfulnesses, experiments that have now become commonplace in broader cider discussion, all (whilst not invented) were brought to wider attention by Little Pomona. 

What’s more, Susanna’s natural gift for PR, and impeccable contact book, meant that she understood the importance of sharing all this with a wider audience, and was assiduous in doing so. No drinks writer, faced with Susanna’s instantly winning enthusiasm, could help but fall for the drinks with which they were presented. And it didn’t hurt that many of them were, and remain, amongst the greatest ciders ever bottled. As I wrote in an article a few years ago, ‘Would the British cider revolution have happened without James and Susanna Forbes? Possibly. Would it have been as dynamic, dramatic and delicious? Not a chance.’

But Susanna’s greatest legacy is the mind-boggling amount she did for cider beyond the boundaries of her own brand. At the most basic level, it’s difficult to think of a producer other than, perhaps, Ross-on-Wye who did as much to promote other companies. Indeed so relentless was Susanna in her advocacy for other cider brands that you could almost forget sometimes that she was a producer herself, had Little Pomona not cemented itself so centrally into British cider consciousness. 

Every promotional initiative around cider in the UK’s recent history has had Susanna at its heart. Be it Discover Cider, Ciderlands Herefordshire, Cider Women or CraftCon, she was there masterminding, playing a central role. And then, of course, there was Rethink Cider, the clarion call she coined with Jane Peyton in 2018, which resonated with so, so many people (both of the founders of this website included) and for which Susanna would be the standard bearer for the next half-decade.

Susanna’s vision was of an overhauled perception of what cider was, had been and could be. The brilliance of its slogan was that it called to everyone; to makers to broaden their horizons and to drinkers to reconsider their perceptions and misconceptions around the drink. It was not merely a suggestion that the drink could, at its most basic level, ‘taste better’, it was a reimagining of every aspect of cider’s culture, from the ways and places it was served to the food it was served with, how it looked, the way it was celebrated, the respect (and price) it could command, the ways it could be engaged with and the people it could reach. All the while championing that which it already was, with consummate respect for the history and people that had brought cider to the place she had found it. 

Yet none of this would have had the impact and resonance it went on to assume had Susanna not brought her consummate gifts of collaboration and empowerment to the task. The rethinking of cider may have been a personal mission but it was never a solo project. Susanna understood at a cellular level the importance of connecting with people who had abilities and interests besides or beyond her own, and working with them to achieve greater things than she could individually was something that actively energised her, and seemed to push her to accomplish yet more; to activate further evangelism and initiative.

One of her greatest accomplishments of all was Cider Women, which she co-founded and initially co-chaired. In an interview she shared here with Helen, Elizabeth Pimblett recalled its genesis as Susanna running around the room at the first CraftCon, physically bringing all the women present together for a photograph. I don’t know that I’ve ever met anyone with the same desire and ability to make collective action happen.

The sheer number of tributes that poured in when news of Susanna’s passing broke last week would have been testament enough to the impact she had on all of cider, but it was the content of the testimonies and the diversity of their origins that has lingered with me. Gabe Cook acknowledging that ‘The Ciderologist’ couldn’t have happened without her. The Fine Cider Company testifying to how essential she was. The Cat in the Glass, Aeble, the American Cider Association. Other producers, retailers, clubs and advocates of every scale and from countries that spanned the globe. Drinks writers I know from beer, from wine, from spirits; drinks writers I hadn’t even realised knew Susanna, but who had not only met her but been deeply and personally impacted and affected by everything she was and did.

I couldn’t bring myself to post anything last week. No two griefs manifest the same way, and I didn’t know what I could or should write about someone who gave me so much, and who brought so much joy to my life and to the lives of so many people I love. I didn’t need a reminder of how much I owe Susanna, but last week I looked back through old emails and whatsapp messages all the way to that first contact in February 2019, and was struck again by just how absolute her influence was on everything unlikely and remarkable that has happened to me since I came across aspirational cider. By the people she introduced me to, unprompted, in Germany, Spain, France, Australia, the USA. By the time she invited me to write for Full Juice, the magazine she set up with cider writing royalty, when I hadn’t even begun the column that led to this blog. By the time a French writer asked her to write the UK section of their book, and she passed the opportunity on to me – a fledgling cider blogger that the writer had never heard of. By all the times she offered advice and support when I approached her about a new project or idea. 

Susanna knew about Cider Review before anyone else and the shape it took on owes much to her wisdom. She knew I wanted to write a book about perry probably even before I really did; I remember sitting in the kitchen with her as she told me that I had to do it; that I was absolutely the person, and I can’t tell you the difference it made hearing that from her. I would have found and tried to write about aspirational cider without her, but it is impossible to think that I would have had the same access, opportunity or encouragement had it not been for Susanna Forbes.

She was, as she was for so many people, my mentor. But more than that, she was my friend, and more than anything else I will remember the joy that Susanna took in everything she did, and in everything she saw other people doing. I will remember her delight in allowing Caroline and I the extraordinary privilege of making a cider for our wedding with her and James, and the delight again when she saw people enjoying it on the day (by the pint, in the case of my groomsmen). I remember the energy she seemed to draw from all the collaborations and initiatives and events. I remember the celebration of her Pomona Award – and no one has ever deserved one more – when she gathered everyone around for the photograph at the top of this piece. Every picture I have ever seen of Susanna, every interaction I saw her have with anyone she met, all of it was suffused with that brilliant, infectious and all-consuming joy.

She was the best. Aspirational cider is blessed with many remarkable individuals, but very few change its landscape entirely. Susanna Forbes was one of those people who did. The difference she made is beyond words, and her influence and presence will be felt for as long as full-juice cider continues to be drunk.

There are so many strands that weave the tapestry of how I will remember Susanna, and each is suffused with colour and light. But they come together perhaps most completely in a moment my friend recalled two days after Susanna’s passing, of the end of the banquet at this year’s CraftCon.

Susanna, by this point, was in a wheelchair, yet there was still no one more energised, enthusiastic, optimistic and full of delight at the whole event; no one keener to engage with the other makers and advocates present. As James led her out at the end of the meal the whole hall rose to its feet in ovation; a spontaneous eruption of cheers and applause. And I remember Susanna, facing us all as she went; radiant, iconic and beautiful; beaming back in absolute joy at the world that she brought together.  

James

I always struggle to find the right words at times like these, and sadly there have been far too many this year, how do you capture all the feelings and memories and write something coherent? I’ve come to the conclusion it’s not possible, and so I will just share the fond memories I have of such a wonderful person.

I first met Susanna and James back in October 2017, after they invited me, a very unknown novice cider writer to come and stay for a couple of days with them at their home and help with the harvest and pressing. A marvellous experience I will never forget, their genuine hospitality to all who visited, whether to help with the cider making or just to find out more always surprised me. I visited many times since then, and Susanna always made me feel at ease and valued in any discussion or situation. I remember seeing her at the very first Bristol Cider Salon back in 2018. I’d only been writing for a short while and posting on social media, and so approached the event somewhat nervously with so many fantastic cider makers all in one room. One of the standout memories from that day is Susanna’s enthusiasm, positive encouragement and welcoming smile. She was so genuinely pleased to see me again and share positive thoughts about cider writing and the event, that I couldn’t help but come away feeling enthusiastic in return. 

Whenever you meet someone new in the cider sphere, they always comment on how kind and welcoming a community it is, Susanna embodied that completely. She was a friend and mentor to so many, including myself and she always had time to talk whatever your question or topic. Her advice early on in my writing helped shape the way I approach things to this day. I recall chatting with her on the phone one winter evening about how to become a cider writer and her honesty about the realities of writing professionally and willingness to share connections and advise on routes to take was generous and invaluable. Her #rethink cider movement with Jane Peyton helped radically change the way many thought about and approached cider, it really shifted the perception and value of the drink and is an approach I have taken into my own cider making as a direct result.

To be honest it’s devastating to be writing about her in the past tense. The cider world has lost a titan of kindness and enthusiasm, two themes that you will see in the hundreds of tributes paid to her across the internet and beyond. She leaves a legacy of impact it would be impossible to calculate, so many makers and drinkers from across the globe have been influenced by Susanna’s approach to life and cider. That legacy will live on through the memories, conversations, and actions of us all, so I implore you to keep talking and sharing.