When I was assembling the rough pieces of this article’s meccano set in my head, every version I envisaged began by attesting to how outrageous Ross-on-Wye’s True Taste of Thorn tasting was. 

Nine different single variety Thorn perries in one sitting. Five different orchards. Five different vintages. Utterly beyond anything even remotely comparable that I’ve come across in cider and perry – beyond even Little Pomona’s multi-orchard Dabinett tasting of last year. A tasting that probably no other cidery in the world would think to put together – even if they could. Almost utterly ridiculous, and that was going to be my opening gambit until I remembered the Vat 1 tasting.

Vat 1 is the name that an Australian winery called Tyrell’s in the Hunter Valley give their dry Semillon – a white grape that pops up in several countries, but only has great regional significance in the Hunter Valley and France’s Bordeaux. Vat 1 is arguably the Hunter’s most famous expression of the grape, which means it is a long way outside my usual drinking pricepoint, and was even further away nine years ago, which was when I tasted it.

Indeed at the time, had this been a formal event, I probably wouldn’t have been able to go. A quick trigger finger on the ‘reply’ button had meant that a colleague and I had been able to pop along for free to an informal Vat 1 vertical. Memory hasn’t preserved quite how steep that vertical was, but something in a dusty hippocampal nook is muttering ‘twenty-four vintages’, and that sounds about right. Now that’s outrageous. And yet it’s no steeper, no wilder or weirder or more ambitious than any number of wine verticals undertaken every day in any number of venues and any number of countries around the world, whether wine is made there in meaningful quantity or not.

And yet this perry tasting was undeniably special. More special, to my mind, than any of those longer verticals. Not just because I am biased towards perry – by and large I’m not. But because it felt like a statement of intent. Like the start of something.

We talk a lot about the importance of vintage to cider and perry – about the difference it makes to the ripeness of pears and the character that ripeness imbues. We talk about orchards – not just the land they’re on, but the age of the trees – and how those elements inflect the character of vintage and channel it into a unique expression. 

But much of this conversation is purely hypothetical. Opportunities for verticals (the same perry across a number of vintages) or horizontals (different orchards across the same vintage) have, to date, been reserved for the most irretrievably down the rabbit hole; those patient and financially able to hold onto particular bottles long enough to compile a vertical.

60 people attended the True Taste of Thorn during Ross-on-Wye’s Summer Soirée this year. Some long standing perry-devotees and Thorn fans; others people who had never tried a single perry in their life before. All were able to taste through the flight of nine for themselves; to see the tangible difference that vintage and orchard makes. It was an event that enabled curiosity and discovery; that utterly refuted any possible generalisations of perry as something homogenous, something lights and sweet and simple. It showed the incredible diversity of character and flavour possible through just one single variety in the hands of one single producer working with one single method. It was both a proof of concept and a tantalising hypothesis of these sheer breadth of flavour that perry – both British and International – is capable of yielding. 

Thorn was the subject because it was the pear that Ross-on-Wye had in a sufficient number of vintages and from a sufficient number of orchards, but even if they’d had the luxury of choice it would have been a brilliant variety to use as a study. Not only because it is one of the most distinctive and intensely characterful of pears, but because as an early-harvest variety with a short ripening window it doesn’t offer much room for the characteristics of vintage to hide. If the summer has been poor there’s no time for a clement autumn to recover it. And fruit from a more challenging orchard doesn’t have the same opportunity to catch up with that of a generous orchard with more ideal ripening conditions. 

To me personally this was a special tasting, since the 2019 Thorn released in 2020 was the first Ross-on-Wye perry that I properly fell in love with, the bottling that sold me on Thorn as a variety and the originator, back in the first lockdown, of ‘Ridiculously Good Perry Monday’. So I was especially delighted that a sister bottling of that 2019 – a batch held back and matured in inert plastic and bottle ever since – was making up part of the vertical.

As I mentioned to Ross-on-Wye supremo, Albert Johnson, before the tasting, it was also a somewhat nerve-wracking experience, having just released a book which in no small part attempts to offer a flavour profile for a broad range of perry pear varieties, and literally begins with a summation of my idea of ‘the true taste of Thorn.’ Would I be proven a fraud? In the good name of finding out, the following is a copy and paste of the Thorn flavour profile as laid down in Perry: A Drinker’s Guide:

***

Thorn
Green, citrusy, zesty

Ask me my favourite perry pear varieties and Thorn will certainly be part of the conversation. A thrilling, vibrant pulse of green fruit – gooseberries, limes, cut grass, kiwi – always with pronounced elderflower. With its racy, mouthwatering acidity, grippy but not excessive tannin and intense flavour profile, this has what some perrymakers call ‘the holy trinity’. An early-ripening pear that demands to be pressed as soon as it hits that ripeness. Its qualities of flavour and structure make it supremely versatile, whether still, bottle-conditioned, pét nat or even traditional (champagne) method, this is a perry pear capable of magnificence.

***

With my organoleptic cards laid on the table, let’s get on with the tasting. All were tasted at the same temperature (roughly cellar, maybe a tiny bit more chilled), and all were tasted outside. I try to ignore all outside inputs until I’ve made my own notes, but it was fantastically interesting to hear the thoughts of other tasters, particularly those who are new to perry and to Thorn and who thus came with unbiased palates. There were some very distinctive shoutouts when Albert asked for flavour feedback – ‘mashed potato and seaweed’ was a particularly memorable one. And it was lovely to hear a little from some of the orchardists who had grown the pears besides those from Broome Farm itself.

A particular joy was being joined for the tasting by our new Cider Review contributor, Beatrix, a whisky writer turned cider and perry scribbler (like all the best people) who you should all follow on twitter here and on instagram here if you don’t already. It was my first time meeting Beatrix, who was accompanied by her partner and family, and she kindly provided her own notes on the tasting (along with her sister Eleanor’s, which are straight-to-the-point and absolutely iconic.)

Right then. In the order they were tasted – the 5 2023 orchards followed by the different vintages – here we go. And if you want to buy the set for yourself you can buy all but the 2022 from Ross-on-Wye’s website here for £72, or £100 for 4 extra bottles.

 One tiny last note which is that, for logistical reasons (ensuring their containers were filled to the top) the 2021 and 2019 Thorns contained 5% Foxwhelp. Legally still perry, legally still single variety Thorn, but worth mentioning for the sake of fairness and completeness.

Ross-on-Wye Thorn 2023 Front Orchard (Broome Farm)

Adam’s note

Appearance: Hazy lime juice

On the nose: Pure elderflower. A little lime leaf and nettle and slate, but basically pure elderflower – really heavy on those floral inflections.

In the mouth: Still a little residual conditioning aromatics. A light touch of sulphur. Probably wants another month or two. Light body, some seriously steely, young, limey acid and a little more elderflower. More about the lime here though. This will be on the sharper, focussed end of Thorns once it’s finished – a style I really like but possibly a bit austere for some.

Beatrix’s note

On the nose: Straight in with the elderflower. There’s also a bit of lychee and a slight yeasty creaminess.

In the mouth: Same as the nose, with a bit of banana, perhaps? This is very light and fresh, even citrusy. Slight nuttiness, low intensity.

Eleanor’s note

Tofu

Ross-on-Wye Thorn 2023 Bridgewell (Broome Farm)

Adam’s note

Appearance: Similar, but cloudier

On the nose: Slightly quieter, with a fair bit more conditioning sulphur. Fruit is a bit muted at this point; touches of lime, honeydew melon and elderflower.

In the mouth: Again on the light-bodied side, with slightly thin acid (though less sharp than the Front Orchard) and light touches of lime, lemon, elderflower and gooseberry among the reductive notes. Probably my least favourite of the day, but in fairness conditioning is still to fully resolve.

Beatrix’s note

On the nose: This is less fresh-smelling, and it’s very ‘fermenty’ (sulphur). A lemony note emerges. 

In the mouth: Quite ‘green’ with fresh, crunchy pear, lingering lemon, and a bit of yeast character. This is less acidic than the last.

Eleanor’s note

Melon

Ross-on-Wye Thorn 2023 Callow Farm (Dymock)

Adam’s note

Appearance: Faintly hazy Elderflower cordial (well, if the hat fits…)

On the nose: Much more aromatic. There’s a touch of ethyl acetate, but it’s only at a pear drop level. Mineral – that sense of rockpools and Butt Pear-esque natural gas. Green grass and gooseberry.

In the mouth: Loads of grippy tannin. Fuller body and riper, less pointy acidity than predecessors. Lime juice. Melon. Slightly-green pineapple. less floral than the other two. Grass and gooseberry. Loads of that slatey minerality. Like this a lot.

Beatrix’s note

On the nose: A bit of sulphur again, but also fresh and ‘shiny’ smelling. Weirdly reminiscent of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. More intensity than the previous two.

In the mouth: Now, here’s some tannin. This palate is quite lovely with its interplay of herbaceous notes, light lemony sweetness, and the astringency of the tannin.

Eleanor’s note

Blackberry

Ross-on-Wye Thorn 2023 Saycells (Kempley)

Adam’s note

Appearance: Similar to Callow Farm but slightly hazier

On the nose: Again a little struck match sulphur. Back to elderflower. Grass and herbs. Hedgerow. Florals. A little wet moss. ‘Countryside walk’ Thorn. Very green.

In the mouth: Surprisingly juicy and with the lowest acidity so far. Just a nibble of lime. Green pear, melon, even a little white peach. A tiny bit of astringency. Feels perhaps a bit lower-definition; a bit short of structure compared to some of the lineup. But nice, and easier-drinking than some others.

Beatrix’s note

On the nose: The elderflower is back — in a nutty, buttery, very rounded way. Slight caramel. Quite different from the last perry.

In the mouth: This feels less ‘fresh’ than the others; the elderflower is rounded out by, well, pear. There’s a tiny bit of tannin.

Eleanor’s note

Apple

Ross-on-Wye Thorn 2023 Kerry’s Barn (Upleadon)

Adam’s note

(Kerry’s Barn is where Ross-on-Wye regularly get some of their best Thorn from, harvested from very old trees. It was behind the 2019 I’ve previously tasted in these pages)

Appearance: Clearer again. Similar to Callow Farm

On the nose: Brighter, fresher and back into floral, elderflower tones. Herbaceous, green and stemmy yet expressing ripeness at the same time. Lime juice, gunflint.

In the mouth: Great, fuller body. Bright, fresh fruit and citrus with elderflower, gooseberry, cut grass and ripe, integrated tannins. Clean, nice fresh acid that isn’t too sharp. Feels very much my idea of a classic Thorn and certainly the most complete, full-bodied ‘ready’ of the 2023 set.

Beatrix’s note

On the nose: Homemade lemonade, some elderflower, and a bit of sulphur and yeast fermentation character.

In the mouth: More of a sweet elderflower. This is very white wine-esque.

Eleanor’s note

Spaghetti

Ross-on-Wye Thorn 2022 (Keg-conditioned, Kerry’s Barn)

Adam’s note

(The only one of the lineup not bottled. Same method – fully fermented then conditioned with 5g/l priming sugar – but filled into keykeg rather than glass)

Appearance: Similar to 2023 Kerry’s Barn

On the nose: Fuller, juicier. Jellied citrus. Much fruitier. An obvious vintage step-change. Wine gums, neat elderflower cordial. Pine needles.

In the mouth: Sweeter, fuller, riper, juicier. Lime marmalade, lemon squash. Even pineapple cubes in juice. Acidity ripe and zesty and balanced by big fruit. Totally delicious and a showcase of just how big 2022 was as a vintage.

Beatrix’s note

On the nose: Smells sweet and pear-y. Also: citrusy spruce tips and berries?!

In the mouth: Tastes like the nose, with lots of residual sugar. The overwhelming note in this sole kegged expression in the line-up is of soursop/quanábana — how fittingly tropical. Tastes even sweeter than it might otherwise in this context. Am I getting a tiny bit of cannabis? Wild.

Eleanor’s note

Blueberry

Ross-on-Wye Thorn 2020 (Broome Farm, mixed orchards)

Adam’s note

Appearance: Clear lemon-green

On the nose: Back to the firmer, lime-led, steely style. A Broome Farm hallmark? Seashell, lime rind, preserved lemon and petrichor. Can definitely see the three-year evolution of fruit compared to its Broome Farm stablemates from 2023.

In the mouth: Some juiciness on the palate but again it’s sharper, steelier, more focussed and structured than the Kerry’s Barns.Some stemminess, but again there’s that development of fruit character compared to the younger expressions. Lime chutney. Almost a touch of savouriness. A great balance of fruit and structure which feels very 2020 (and very Ross Thorn?). A slow-sipping cerebral style but one that’s very much up my alley. Especially good with food I’d wager – and I mean that in the best way.

Beatrix’s note

On the nose: Concentrated apple caramel — apple butter! The fruit here has certainly developed. Like nothing else tasted so far. 

In the mouth: What a contrast to the nose: green, leafy freshness; a lot less sweet than expected; and boasting great structure and ‘line’ from the acid. A drying, slightly biscuity finish.

Eleanor’s note

Fruit leather

Ross-on-Wye Thorn 2021 (Kerry’s Barn)

Adam’s note

(Tasted after the 2020 due to 5% Foxwhelp)

Appearance: Similar but a semitone golder

On the nose: More aromatically muted than the 2020. Mineral, hedgerow – more in the lime rind and herbs and mint direction than more overtly ‘fruity’. Detailed, delicate, cerebral. All green.

In the mouth: Nibbly, limey acidity. Very mineral – rainwater on rock. This is Thorn pretending to be Green Horse. Herbs, grass, lime flesh, dandelion stem and pine needle. Almost juniper. Actually very complex, but in a quieter-spoken way than some stablemates. Another to sit with and tease out to reveal its full riches.

Beatrix’s note

On the nose: Apple-y with a bit of yeast; white wine and strawberry.

In the mouth: Really present acid, unripe pear, and lemons. This is reminiscent of crisp apple juice.

Eleanor’s note

Tortillas

Ross-on-Wye Thorn 2019 Batch 2 (Kerry’s Barn)

Adam’s note

Appearance: The deepest. Gold but almost rose-tinted

On the nose: Easily the richest, ripest, fullest and clearest. Really developed lime – almost dried, certainly concentrated. Honey. Grassy olive oil; certainly a savoury depth, almost getting into autumn leaves. Dried citrus, concentrated elderflowers. An enormous, stately Thorn nose; an evolution of its sibling batch – which I really ought to re-taste…

In the mouth: Big, ripe, full delivery, in a sinewy, unoaked white-winey, Sancerre-but-with-tannin-y way. Acids and tannins are pronounced but now totally integrated in a full, harmonious, complex and elegant mélange of fresh and dried fruit. Everything found on the nose is here, augmented with wild strawberries, rose petals and even dried tropical fruits. The wildness of its youth (which I already loved) has evolved into a grown-up, super-complex and beautifully complete perry. My clear favourite.

Beatrix’s note

On the nose: Grassy expensive olive oil! Then, warm and woody with concentrated apple and a bit of banana. 

In the mouth: Starts with that lovely concentrated pome sweetness, then goes into crazily mouth-coating tannin (at least, compared to the other perries). Big dried mango note. However, we’re still getting the acid and lemon — especially on the finish.

Eleanor’s note

Walnuts

Conclusions

My favourite perry tasting of all time? It’d certainly be up there – in a month when I have been absolutely spoiled for sensational perry tastings. I know a few cider clubs around the country are going to undertake it (Chester already has) and if you can get to one, I’d wholly endorse doing so. If you can’t make a tasting, I’d heartily recommend buying the set from Ross-on-Wye if you can. There really isn’t another equivalent perry experience.

Really great to have Beatrix’s notes to compare to my own – and relieved to see that I’m more or less along the same lines as she is. Hopefully the first of many joint tastings to come. And I hope she continues to drag Eleanor and the rest of her family around Herefordshire with her.

The impact of vintage on Thorn was magnificently apparent throughout this tasting; so much so that I reckon I’d have had a reasonable shout at guessing them. 2023, that wet, grey summer revealed itself in some lighter, sharper perries – though interestingly a keg-conditioned multi-orchard blend showed a complexity and harmony beyond any of them individually. 2022 was the big, ripe, pillowy, sun-filled charmer, whilst 2020 (one of my favourite cider and perry vintages – possibly my favourite so far full stop) offered its balance of fruit and structure. I’ve still yet to fully get a handle on 2021; a bit of an enigma that has similarities to 2020 whilst perhaps not being quite as full in its balance. The 2021 Thorn we tried did nothing to cement any of my feelings.

2019 remains my standout – which feels odd given 2019 was a vintage I tend to think of having been a notch or two below 2020, 2018 and even 2021. But then it was clear that Kerry’s Barn is a particularly special orchard, even in vintages that can prove troublesome elsewhere.

These are all, of course, hypotheses. Cider and perry have never really done ‘vintage reports’ – other than Jack’s magnificent series of last December. What feelings I have on the differing characters of vintages are largely the result of conversations with makers and my own hot takes cobbled together from personal tastings. Throw in the variables of tree age and orchard, and all bets of organoleptic certainty are off.

But that uncertainty – that broad, three-dimensional tapestry of flavour variable – is precisely what this tasting was designed to explore, and precisely why it was such a joy to be a part of. The delight of discovering just how great an impact each variable has on the flavour of a perry. The acknowledgement that there are so many more questions around this drink than have ever been asked or answered before. The demonstration of its complexity; the teasing of what more it might still have to offer. The realisation that the True Taste of Thorn; the True Taste of Perry; is something we might never fully reveal, but that thanks to producers like Ross-on-Wye we at last have the opportunity to try.

That said, I reckon my assessment in the book is close enough. That’s a relief.   

Adam’s order of preference

1. 2019
2. 2022
3. 2023 (Kerry’s Barn) and 2020 
4. 2023 (Callow Farm) and 2021
5. 2023 (Front Orchard)
6. 2023 (Saycells)
7. 2023 (Bridgewell)

Beatrix’s favourites

1. 2019
2. 2020
3. Bonus award to 2022 for fun and joyfulness