As Eddie Argos, lead singer of indie rock band Art Brut, sung back in 2005: “Modern Art makes me want to rock out.” Where better to soak up the atmosphere and sample the wares of the greatest hits of British cider and perry-makers than Bankside, London, SE1 9TG. Otherwise better known by the building’s more commonly used name: the Tate Modern. Bastion of modern art and culture from all around the world; a former power station designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott (he of Red Telephone Box, Liverpool Cathedral, Cambridge University Library, and just down the River Thames, Battersea Power Station fame), filled with a rotating array of the world’s most inspiring art, displayed in galleries that will often take your breath away – none more so than the Turbine Hall. It’s alongside this cavernous, wondrous space, currently being filled with Ghanaian sculptor, El Anatsui’s latest commission, that I found myself on the final evening in September of this year, in Tate Modern’s new foodie space, the Corner Bar, for the inaugural London Cider Salon.

Adam and I both wrote of our experiences at this year’s Cider Salon Bristol back in August. It was my first year visiting, and not to retread old ground too much, it was a great event, but by heck it was a journey and a half there and back again to Bristol from Norfolk, with train strikes the day before and then blanket cancellations at Kings Cross on the route home. You can imagine therefore that shortly after I managed to get home, the announcement from Fine Cider Co that a London Cider Salon event was in the works, well, it was greeted with great enthusiasm. It’s roughly 100 miles on a direct line from my hometown to Kings Cross, and on the weekends with a railcard, super off-peak pricing to travel that distance. I booked my tickets to the Salon, then my train tickets too, and then…a week or two ago they announced more train strikes on the day of the event! Never let it be said that those of us that want to enjoy all the fun events we’re being offered as cider and perry fans have it easy when using public transport as our primary means of getting about the shop. Let alone the producers who were banking on travelling down to London on the day with their boxes of 750ml bottles in tow. 

Anyhow, long story short, I made it to the event thanks to the kindness of my sister and her partner . In the days following this event, when I’ve spoken to family and friends about what I got up to on the weekend, the universal response to “I’ve been to a cider event in the Tate Modern with 30 different producers” has been “Wow that sounds completely awesome, I wish I’d have come along!” It was really. In quite a surreal way. I don’t think I’ve experienced cider and perry in such a brushed concrete and glass-surrounds setting before, very much in the heart of a cultural space which itself sits in the heart of the capital city of the UK. US cidermaker Andy Brennan talks in his excellent book, Uncultivated: Wild Apples, Real Cider, And The Complicated Art Of Making A Living, of The Boom Years – where he was regularly going into the centre of New York City from his home upstate, and serving cider at talks in upmarket restaurants and private members clubs, often fitting in multiple appearances in one night, jumping from cab to cab on a tight deadline. Riding the crest of a wave that he had helped create in the USA. An event like London Cider Salon, in a setting like the Tate Modern, very much helps set the scene, or (pardon the pun), paint the picture, that Cider & Perry’s wave is rising in the UK, carrying more and more producers and consumers along with it. 

I’d like to address the obvious elephant in the room from Cider Salon Bristol: yes, dear reader, this time at the London Cider Salon there were multiple spittoons placed along the run of the Corner Bar (a nation breathes a sigh of relief) and complimentary water was available from the bar itself at all times. I got multiple top-ups of finest vintage London tap-water between tables, which was really helpful – the politeness and friendliness of staff behind the bar should be noted too. I imagine they’ve seen a wide and varied slice of life in the Tate Modern before, but I doubt they’ve seen such a large crowd of exclusively eager cider and perry fans on their patch before. 

The joy of exploration and discovery that I felt in Bristol was here in London too. No sooner had I walked in, turned left, and visited a table or two, I was greeted by a producer from Fife, Scotland completely new to me: Linn Cider & Perry. Their multi-varietal perry, using fruit from Herefordshire, and their cider aged in ex-whisky barrel, sherry hogsheads, were a revelation – as was the fact they’d brought not only a wodge of 750ml bottles down from Scotland, but also a smattering of 1.5litre capacity magnums too! That’s dedication to the large format pour cause if ever I saw it – the IMAX presentation of cider & perry indeed. Sampling drinks from producers newly appearing on one’s radar really is up towards the top of the checklist with events like this. Good work Felix, Aga and co! 

Another great reason for attending in-person events with makers is to try soon-to-be/yet-to-be released drinks. We were spoilt for choice at the London Cider Salon in this regard: a new Ross on Wye x Nightingale Cider collaboration blend (Discovery & Foxwhelp oh my days!); a 10%+ abv traditional method cider from Gospel Green; Mr Browns from Pilton Cider, featuring none other than mine and your favourite apple variety that isn’t the colour its name would indicate (Browns); a gorgeous, Gin-heavy blended Succulent Still Perry from Tom Oliver; Thick Cut, an unctuous, Autumnal, Yarlington Mill SVC from Little Pomona, aged in cognac barrels; and an about-turn, unexpectedly sweet cider from Welsh Mountain Cider, made not with the addition of extra sugar, but much racking (and then some more) of the cider to reduce the amount of yeasts in the liquid to nibble on the residual sugar (it really works, as Bill explained to me). These were just a few of the drinks on show, I didn’t manage to visit every table, I’m sure there were more there waiting to be discovered.

As well as the Corner Bar, the event utilised the adjoining Starr Cinema for two talks, included with the price of admission, which broke up the standing, talking, and drinking element really effectively. First up was Tom Oliver with his Cheddar On My Mind bottling, alongside cheese expert Sam Wilkin, and some very tasty accompanying cheddar. Sam also makes the Yarlington cheese I’ve tried to procure all this year from my local cheese shop (to no avail) – it was great to hear the distribution of this cider-washed semi-soft cheese is widening across the UK, hopefully just in time for Christmas cheeseboards! Following this enjoyable gastronomic dissection on the merits of pairing cheese and cider came a fascinating discussion between Polly Hilton of Find & Foster and Georgie Beach of Ripe Cider. Hosted by Liberty Wines’ Ellen Doggett, this was a brilliant deep-dive into the world of Devon and Cornwall cider varieties, and the obvious crossovers between the wine and cider worlds when it comes to grafting and preserving interesting varietals, and the unique flavours (and price points) these ciders can present to consumers across the UK and beyond. I really enjoyed both of these talks, and any excuse to get me back into a cinema and listen to a discussion or two from learned guests brings back happy memories of my arthouse cinema former career. 

Summing up then, the London Cider Salon was a resounding success in my books. Bringing together a diverse array of producers, products, and consumers into one beautiful setting in the UK’s capital city. If you’d have told me last year that I’d be attending such an event in the Tate Modern I would have scoffed and said you’re pulling my leg. But it worked, and was very well-attended. That a former power station/current modern art gallery can play host to some of the true artistic powerhouses behind a lot of what makes the modern fine cider & perry scene so exciting and vibrant seems incredibly positive to me. Late September is one third of the way into harvest season for the year, so it was great to see so many producers turn up and leave their orchards and fruit behind for one special day. Let’s hope the event was deemed a success by all involved in the planning and execution of it this year, and we see a return in 2024. Who knows, one day we might even see it spill over into a joint exhibition in the neighbouring Turbine Hall? My mind drifts to visions of a gigantic apple and pear tree sculpture, stretching from concrete floor to iron girder rooftop. I could really rock out to that! Modern art indeed.