I found the conversation with Ryan of Caledonian Cider Co very illuminating, I hope you all did too. These kind of summaries of the previous year’s harvest and subsequent trials and tribulations with rising costs in some areas, mitigated by creative practices in other, really interest me. If time was no object I would happily ask every cider and perry-maker on my radar similar questions as it gives a really good snapshot of the state of the industry (at least UK-based), with lots of learnings for those that are inclined that way. I was struck also this week listening to the welcome reappearance of the Neutral Cider Hotel podcast: producer Scott was talking to Grant up in Anstruther, Fife about the effect his cider shop Aeble can have on the local population. That choice of picking up 3 or 4 bottles of cider and perry for the weekend from Aeble, as opposed to the local supermarket, chimed with what Ryan was saying about Dearcan Dorcha being a counterpoint to Strongbow Dark Fruits. Having the option there to choose a different product from an independent bottle shop, belies the illusion of choice often presented at supermarkets. Even if it was every other week, fortnight or month, it wouldn’t take many customers to shift their purchasing habits towards a bottle or two of Caledonian Cider from Aeble to have a proportionally bigger impact on Ryan and Grant’s businesses than the equal small loss of trade from their local supermarkets for that slightly reduced shopping basket.

I alluded to it at the start of the previous article, but I still find myself being very grateful to be around in a time where it’s just as easy to order a small selection of Ryan’s drinks from Cork & Cask in Edinburgh, and have them delivered to my door within 3 days. I’ve never stepped foot in the shop before, but I trust their curated selection of Scottish ciders and perries and have never yet (touch wood) had a duffer from them, so I go back again and again. No doubt you’ll have your favourite local bottle shop too for the locality you call home – please do send some recommendations through in the comments section below, or in replies to the main posting of this review – the team here at Cider Review are always on the lookout for new producers and shops to support. So, onto the review in hand with two of Ryan’s ciders I’d never tried before, and two iterations of ciders I’d had from previous vintages!

Caledonian Cider Co Tha Sin Blasta 2022– review (7%abv)

How I served: Chilled from a day in the fridge

Colour: Radiant Lemon gold, slightly hazy

On the nose: Picking up a hint of Islay Barrels here, perhaps casks previously used for Ryan’s Islay Barrel release? Apple skin, specifically the spiced clove/apple crumble and cinnamon notes you get from biting into a Cox/D’Arcy Spice/Ellisons Orange

In the mouth: Juicy and phenolic (thinking Caol Ila). The juiciness is akin to a nicely medium acid apple juice. Still presentation, like a slightly smoky, dry, apfelwein.

In a nutshell: I haven’t tried an Ellisons Orange SVC before so great to try this from a cidery around 510 miles north of where I live in East Anglia. The combination of dessert fruit and barrel-ageing (I presume) works really well to bring more body to the juice.

Caledonian Cider Co This Is Ceitidh 2022 – review (6.5%abv)

How I served: Chilled, as per a hot August day

Colour: Straw gold, Worzel Gummidge hair (in the best possible way)

On the nose: Chris at Cork & Crown often talks about perceptions of sweetness on the nose, even though you can’t smell sweetness. This is all about perceptions of acidity. All sorts of hints of sharp apple and white ground pepper.

In the mouth: The power of the Katy apple, it doesn’t care what vessel it’s fermented in! I’m getting very little barrel influence here and mostly bold, brash malic acid. Amazing that flavour profile can be preserved so vibrantly post-fermentation.

In a nutshell: I refuse to be diminished by fermentation! Such a strong combination of acid-driven flavours here, would go great with a creamy fish dish, a bean casserole, or with blue cheese ‘n’ crackers.

Caledonian Cider Co Dearcan Dorcha 2022 – review (7%abv)

How I served: Chilled

Colour: Ruby claret, red cherry skin

On the nose: Creamy blackcurrant, hedgerow fruit, slight rose Turkish delight.

On the palate: Unadulterated dry cider Co-fermented with blackcurrant. Everything you would hope this flavour combo could bring. Astringency, slightly puckering, blackcurrant cordial without the sweetener steroids. Minimal effervescence.

In a nutshell: So pleased Caledonian Cider Co have released this as an example to place alongside the Uber-sweetened, industrial counterparts in the Fruit Cider category. For fans of full flavour, dry cider, this will expand your horizons as to what the addition of blackcurrant can do. The colour is immediately enticing and pops off the shelf. A snapshot of Highland orchard and hedgerow life from 2022.

Caledonian Cider Co North and South 2021 – review (4%abv)

How I served: Popped outa the fridge after a couple of hours

Colour: Hazy orange, candlelight through a window at night

On the nose: Keeved cider, a French association. 

In the mouth: The keeved cider addition is dominating in this blend. There may be no added sugar but this is the most medium to medium-dry Caledonian Cider of the four thus reviewed. Tasted blind I’d have said Pilton over Caledonian for flavour profile. Very accessible.

In a nutshell: A gateway to the unique Highland cider style that Ryan does so well at Caledonian Cider Co. Skewing more balanced and less idiosyncratic than other releases, I commend what he’s doing with the whole output of his great cider company!