It’s ever so nice to shine the spotlight on cider and perrymakers not only on my doorstep, but who also take on the stewardship of a much older orchard and help bring it back into a productive phase of existence again. Akin to living in an old property, no matter the single-glazed windows and low ceilings (OK, I’m projecting visions of my 1867 flat here), the fact it’s still serving its primary purpose after all these years, feels somewhat proper and balanced in the scheme of things. This feeling I got with Oliver. He didn’t need to move out to Marshland St James and gradually, Lazurus-like, bring this circa-1910 Fenland Bramley orchard back from the brink. But he is the right person at the right time for this collection of apple and pear trees. They’re so fortunate to have him as their custodian. The prevailing winds would howl grub up and plough over, or if you’re lucky – grub up and plant a bush orchard in its place. The perseverance of these Bramley trees, spanning two separate centuries over a period of 113 years, observing a whole agricultural system evolve and discard their modus operandi – it’s humbling. And somewhere along the line, 100 years+ after they were first put in the ground, along comes this optimistic, hardworking chap, that is more interested in bringing out the best from these trees in the hope they can provide a good, reliable crop once more. That’s a true partnership!

I thought it interesting Oliver’s happiness to stick purely with 500ml presentation for his drinks. Yes the economics of it over BIB are indisputable purely on a price per litre viewpoint. But along that line one could argue to only send cider and perry to the market in 750ml or 1.5litre bottles for an even higher margin. The added networking value of providing good quality cider and perry in BIB format to the many CAMRA Beer & Cider festivals up and down the land is something to not be ignored. You never know who you will meet at these festivals and how your paths will intertwine in the future. Alongside this, the added value prop of 750ml and Magnums will absolutely get you into certain bottle shops and restaurants that may not have been looking to take another 500ml line of cider or perry. Different and varied presentation styles is the rising tide that will hopefully lift, if not all, then a few more producers that are fighting the good fight. Having said that… I like these 500ml bottles, there’s a good level of description on the back label, and they do also fit in the bar fridge (or home fridge) shelf exceedingly effortlessly. Let’s have a taste!

Zinger (5.8%) – review

How I served it: It chilled in the fridge all day.

Colour: Brassy lemon gold, light effervescence rising through. 

On the nose: Lemon fresh citrus and green apple skin.

On the palate: Whilst the acidity is there, it’s no way as acid-bomb sharp as some Bramley SVCs can be. This is approaching mellow, which I very rarely experience with this variety. Exceptionally clean and dry, a real pleasure.

In a nutshell: Oliver did ask me if I thought I was a bit of a dry cider snob (in jest) compared to the slightly sweeter tooth that the wide majority of the general public display. It is my preferred presentation style of cider I must admit, this cider absolutely ticks that box and then some. Proudly Eastern Counties style Bramley SVC!

Lazy Bunny (5.8%) – review

How I served it: a scorcher of a day meant this was in the fridge all day till I got home.

Colour: straw gold, stubble from a freshly harvested barley field. Nice mousse around the rim. Similar mild effervescence.

On the nose: Slight baked apple skin nose, faint ginger note.

On the palate: Again, very clean. The sweetness is ramped up compared to the Zinger, and this is evidently Oliver’s crowd-pleaser at this sweetened level. Clarity of the Bramley juice really coming through still. 

In a nutshell: If someone is afraid of a Bramley SVC, start them off on this with an eye to introducing the Zinger later. A very accessible cider that I could see being extremely popular pouring from a keg at festivals.

Feasting Pheasant (6.8%) – review

How I served it: Chilled from the fridge.

Colour: Straw gold, slight mousse, very slight effervescence.

On the nose: Pear juice, slight dessert wine (Pineau des Charantes or Moscatel), apple note on the back.

On the palate: Sour pear drop and lemon sherbet, rich or rather, viscous, whilst still being dry. Superbly balanced between rich, almost stewed vibes the Conference and Commice dessert pears are bringing the party, compared to the more austere, sharp, to the point elements from Bramley. Slight element of phenols on the back of the palate.

In a nutshell: This is how you do Eastern Counties Pider right. A balanced, accessible, nuanced drink that showcases how to make a Pider with dessert pears and culinary apples. Tasty!

Orchard Duet (6.8%) – review

How I served it: Another 32•c day in September required a chilled from the fridge cider

Colour: Lemon gold, as with the others, great clarity.

On the nose: There’s a battle going on between Bramley and dessert pear here. Hint of guava and pomegranate.

On the palate: I was expecting clawing sweetness, but the Bramley is winning this one and its malic acidity is making itself known. That tropical note from the nose evolves to White Grapefruit and Kiwi, with a bit of honeyed pear tagging along for the ride.

In a nutshell: A much more balanced sweet pider than I was expecting, the sharpness of the Bramley is doing a great job at counterbalancing any sweetness. Rather refreshing on a hot September eve!